Intarsia sweaters have officially lost their tacky “ugly Chistmas swater” stigma. The streets of fashion capitals are awash in knits with jacquarded graphics, most specifically Alberta Ferretti’s “days of the week” sweaters, Loewe’s sophisticated fair-isles, and Raf Simons’ oversized ‘I Love NY” pullover. These designer versions are all sold out, but new interpretations are sure to catch on for next fall.
Raf Simons explored the dark underbelly of American mythology with disturbingly beautiful results. Satin cowboy shirts mixed with 50s circle skirts, all made ironic with Warhol screen prints and spattered finishes. Many pieces were emblazoned with “Designed in New York” or “Made in Ohio” in screened or rubberized text, underlining current movements like Who Made My Clothes (fashionrevolution.com) or Made in America. While the references were brilliant and brainy, there were clear takeaways for FW18, including screenprinting, color-blocking, western touches, drawstrings, wetlook finishes, spray painting, long fringe, and much more.