In fashion right now it’s not about the color, it’s about the color combo. One mix that John Galliano used for his couture collection for Maison Margiela and that reappears in more wearable ways in resort presentations is a vibrant concoction of magenta and green. Designers use the two hues in prints, in solids for ensembles, or in a graphic way such as contrasting lapels.
GIAMBA RESORT 2019
Socks are a thing, especially sport socks. For next Resort season, the lowly tube sock is elevated with engineered details like sheer insets, jacquarded logos and fresh color. Stripes can be horizontal or vertical, placed allover or just at top cuff. While some designers show the socks with sneakers, they look newest when incongruously styled with ladylike pumps or punk-flavored pointy flats.
Ruching is the new ruffle. Resort 2019 collections are full of these softly dimensional details, used for dresses, skirts, sweaters — and even pant legs. Horizontal placements gently suggest a waist on roomy dresses. Some ruchings are asymmetrical, or are adjustable with strings ties for customizable effects.
The trench coat, like a motorcycle jacket or a pair of jeans, is one of those basics that can be endlessly reinvented while still maintaining its design integrity. For next Resort, newness comes from sleeveless versions, color or fabric-blocking, cape-like slits for arms or puff-shouldered sleeves with channel-elastic cuffs. Fabrics include rustic linens, smooth cottons, lightweight corduroy and flat-quilted nylon. Novel touches can be as splashy as floral-appliquéd shoulders or as subtle as a single red button.
Furry feet are walking all over Pre-Fall (pun intended). Slippers, sandals, mules, and high heels add a cozy yet chic feel to any ensemble. Neutrals like shearling beige or ivory plush add a natural note, but brights or pastels work too. This playful footwear works with any ensemble, from flowy dresses to distressed denim to tailored looks.
Big-cat spots weren’t the only jungle prints this season. In both Women’s Pre-Fall and Men’s Fall collections, lizard motifs proved to be a fresh alternative to classic leopard. They are used for slim printed pants, car-wash skirts, sleek leather coats, trucker jackets and easy lounge-y dresses. Neutral “realistic” colors are key, some tinted with bits of pink or metallic silver, but lipstick red emerges as key alternative for animalia of all kinds.
Demure dresses resemble delicate nightgowns from past eras. Long-sleeved silhouettes with drawstring necklines and loose shapes call to mind simple undergarments from the 1800’s, while ruffles and pintucked details take inspiration from feminine Victorian gowns. Silky, lace-trimmed styles have a vintage boudoir feel.
Sometimes it’s the little things that make an item look new. For next spring it’s all about the tape. Designers use twill trim, grosgrain ribbon, jacquard logo tape and other narrow goods as closures, zip pulls and in place of drawstrings for gathered details. These tape-ties give garments a contemporary, industrial feel and enable wearers to customize the look and shape of their clothes, in keeping with the demand for versatility and easy-fits.
Smocking, the technique usually associated with baby clothes and folkloric peasant blouses, is bringing fresh appeal to tops and dresses for next fall. The shirred-and-stitched handicraft has been around since the Renaissance, when it was used to shape and provide stretch long before there was such a thing as elastic. Perhaps the latest craze began last spring when Miuccia Prada used smocked bodices throughout her Miu Miu collection. Whether it signals a yearning for a more innocent time, a renewed appreciation for the dressmaking crafts, or just as a way to add dimension and control to fall’s voluminous silhouettes, the detail seems to have taken hold.
