Floral prints abound on S19 menswear runways. There are packed blossoms, flat flower-power daisies, lush roses and little ditsies, all used for woven shirts, jackets, smooth knits or screened onto tees. A single bloom can be painted onto a suit jacket or heat-transfered onto a trench coat. For the true flower-lover, there are even posey-printed pants and jeans.
At first glance the newest graphic pullovers seem geared more to toddlers than trendsters. Screen-printed tees and intarsia sweaters are emblazoned with Saturday morning favorites from Simpsons to manga; others sport images from vintage comics or monster movies like Godzilla. A dark ground and a good dose of irony keeps it all feeling grown-up.
The golden tones that we forecast for Fall 19 (see Norwegian Wood trend tale) are making an early appearance for Cruise 19. The traditionally autumnal hues get a warm weather twist in easy athleisure looks like jogging sets, and in festive fabrics like glimmering matelassés or petal shaped spangles. Camel-toned leathers are part of the story, accented with a ceramic-green handle; the dull blue-green accent color is part of the Norwegian Wood palette as well.
The fine-gauge jersey turtleneck, a key item for layering, moves forward with prints. Geometrics, pen-and-ink scribbles, abstract leopard spots or florals are printed on smooth or ribbed knits or stretch velvets. The tops work on their own or are styled under other tees, polos or dresses, adding a fall-appropriate layer while providing visual interest.
Mrs. Prada showed her cruise collection in New York last night in a Prada-owned former piano factory, its huge windows covered by sheets of red plexiglass that tinted sunset views of the Hudson River scarlet. While the collection played with many familiar Miuccia signifiers — the sport touches, the lustrous brocades, the mod influences — there was a freshness in the combinations and plenty of ideas. We especially loved the stretchy printed turtlenecks layered under openwork sweaters, the self-ruffles on tanks, polos or wrap miniskirts, and the hipster self-belts. The prints were outstanding, from mod-meets-deco geometrics to florals that melted into psychedelic swirls. Ornamented loafers or patent sling-back pumps confirmed the movement toward square toes, and the padded trapper hats could be quickly incorporated into Fall/Winter 18.
The penchant for fringe and the lust for glitter come together in tinsel-like trim. Sparkling strips enliven fringe skirts or are used as an allover look to create intense texture. The festive strands — whether they are sequin-covered, metallic yarns or cut from Day-Glo plastic — work for everything from ironic Coco-inspired tweeds to smooth techno pieces. Most beguiling, perhaps, is the mysterious allure created when long tinsel peeks out from beneath a menswear suit. 
Much of the clothing on the Fall Menswear runways suggests or outright imitates survival gear. There are protective coatings, industrial tapes holding keys or extra shoes, all kinds of drawstrings & zipped pockets, ballistic nylons — even identity tags. A bit of handicraft, like a crochet detail on a sweater, will warm up the techno aesthetic.
Stripes get wider, bolder and more colorful for next spring. Whether duotone and evenly spaced awning stripes or multi-colored, multi-width bayadere versions, graphic bands of color enliven shorts, dresses, knits and accessories. Pieced constructions, diagonal placements, wavy layouts or mixes of different striped patterns bring more newness.
Even when an item is a perennial, there are subtle shifts in material, proportion and silhouette that move the piece forward and speak of the “now”. Such is the case with this season’s trench coat. The newest must-have versions are boxy, with a straight, waistless shape. Firm fabrics or smooth leathers uphold the rectangular silhouette, and bellows pockets or flat-flaps echo the squared-off aesthetic. Sleeveless styles offer lots of options for easy layering. Most of the boxy trenches on the runways are minimalist, but Prada decorated the extended shoulders and flaps with an array of cabochons and colorful paillettes.
While comic-book graphics abound this season, there is a more subtle interpretation in the form of ben-day dots. The dots were used in 19th and 20th century printing to achieve half-tone tints, or were overlapped to create blended shades. The effect was borrowed and exaggerated by the 60s pop artists, particularly Roy Lichtenstein. Some designers used a rough, broken “registration” for their dots to mimic the imperfect comic-strip effect. For embellishments and accessories, evenly spaced beads or half-dome cabochons deliver the same visual “pow”.