The padded scarf has been edging its way onto runways for a few years, but this season it seems to be taking hold. There are rich jacquard versions, floral prints, leopard patterns and reversible solids. Some take the shape of a shawl (like a tiny portable duvet) or a shawl-jacket hybrid. Embellishments include fringed edges, toggle drawstrings, or pyramid-shaped brass studs.
It was fitting that the Queen, with her famous love of scarves, was in the front row at Richard Quinn’s show. Quinn, the first recipient of Her Majesty’s British Design Award, seemed to use scarves as a starting point for his mix of florals and baroque curlicues; most of these madcap ensembles were complete with a silk square tied under the chin, babushka-style. Several other designers used scarves as accessories or as design elements — like a flowing panel on a tailored shirt or border-printed pajama sets.
Even when an item is a perennial, there are subtle shifts in material, proportion and silhouette that move the piece forward and speak of the “now”. Such is the case with this season’s trench coat. The newest must-have versions are boxy, with a straight, waistless shape. Firm fabrics or smooth leathers uphold the rectangular silhouette, and bellows pockets or flat-flaps echo the squared-off aesthetic. Sleeveless styles offer lots of options for easy layering. Most of the boxy trenches on the runways are minimalist, but Prada decorated the extended shoulders and flaps with an array of cabochons and colorful paillettes.