The trend toward smaller bags and little pouches impacts menswear for next spring. Runways (and NYC streets) feature men wearing fanny packs holster-style, as well as appealing neck-wallets that are a sleek take on the frumpy travelers’ favorite. Look out for contoured shapes that encircle the waist, menswear fabrics, fluo touches, ombré finishes and contrast zips. Many of the smallest bags attach with a clip for extra versatility.
At first glance the newest graphic pullovers seem geared more to toddlers than trendsters. Screen-printed tees and intarsia sweaters are emblazoned with Saturday morning favorites from Simpsons to manga; others sport images from vintage comics or monster movies like Godzilla. A dark ground and a good dose of irony keeps it all feeling grown-up.
Whether the reality is glossy nylon, glazed organza or supple latex, the effect is plastic. Recent Cruise and Men’s collections showcased all sorts of sheer and shiny items, from translucent blazers to ripstop silk tops. Outerwear seems like the most wearable option when using these cellophane-like materials — like a 60s graphic raincoat or flesh-toned topper that mixes mild fetishism with minimalist chic.
Tie-dye and dyed effects are uptrending, not only on Resort runways but for Menswear as well. There are big swathes of painted color for an outerwear piece, mottled effects for denim, and ombréd knit sets that have a faux dip-dye effect. For sweaters and knit tops there are tie-dyed stripes in berry shades, splotchy multi-colors, and a hippyish tie-dye tee with strategically placed tie-dye medallions and dyed sleeves.
Flat quilting, the kind usually used for industrial protection, gets an elegant turn for fall. There are diamond quilted jackets, circle skirts that borrow from bedspreads, and skirts that mimic moving blankets. While the thought of extra padding for apparel may make some cringe, lightweight constructions and clever cuts make these pieces wearable and desirable.
The newest kicks on the runways show lots of interesting details, signaling a movement away from the basic “dad sneaker” of last season. Design attributes range from the technical to the whimsical. There are ergonomic panels, fat-padded tongues, velcro ankle straps and furry accents. Black-and-white or brights still work, but newest are mirror-finish silver or pops of Day-Glo against a neutral upper. Soles include extended heels and checkerboard flatforms, spanning the divide between function and fashion.
In an interview in The New York Times a few years ago, Rick Owens memorably said “Right now I’m trying to figure out how to make tulle look like concrete.” That oxymoronic goal seems to be shared by several designers this season, who give tulle (and its playful cousin, dotted Swiss) more structure with ruching, pleats or boxy cuts. Sometime tulle is used as a filmy outerlayer for sweatshirts or trousers or is cut into a simple tee, adding ballet-worthy illusion to daytime basics.