TINSEL TOWN

 

The penchant for fringe and the lust for glitter come together in tinsel-like trim. Sparkling strips enliven fringe skirts or are used as an allover look to create intense texture. The festive strands — whether they are sequin-covered, metallic yarns or cut from Day-Glo plastic — work for everything from ironic Coco-inspired tweeds to smooth techno pieces. Most beguiling, perhaps, is the mysterious allure created when long tinsel peeks out from beneath a menswear suit.

Gucci Fall/Winter RTW 18
Prada Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ashish Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ports 1961 Fall/Winter RTW 18
Libertine Fall/Winter RTW 18

DUVETS GET PERSONAL

The padded scarf has been edging its way onto runways for a few years, but this season it seems to be taking hold. There are rich jacquard versions, floral prints, leopard patterns and reversible solids. Some take the shape of a shawl (like a tiny portable duvet) or a shawl-jacket hybrid. Embellishments include fringed edges, toggle drawstrings, or pyramid-shaped brass studs.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Fall/Winter RTW 18
Phillip Lim Fall/Winter RTW 18
Michael Kors Fall/Winter RTW 18
Fashion East Fall/Winter RTW 18
Roksanda Ilincic Fall/Winter RTW 18
Jil Sander Fall/Winter RTW 18

STRIPE POWER

 

Stripes are coming in from all directions for next fall. Mitered placements and sharp angles elevate the pattern from the classic to the unconventional. Uneven spacing, varied widths and vivid color provide more newness, as do textural stitches and head-to-toe styling — right down to the striped tights.

Mulberry London Fall RTW 18
Phillip Lim Fall RTW 18
Richard Malone Fall RTW 18
Fyodor Golan Fall RTW 18
Gabriela Hearst Fall RTW 18
Calvin Klein Fall RTW 18

STRIPE POWER

Stripes are coming in from all directions for next fall. Mitered placements and sharp angles elevate the pattern from the classic to the unconventional. Uneven spacing, varied widths and vivid color provide more newness, as do textural stitches and head-to-toe styling — right down to the striped tights.

Mulberry London Fall RTW 18
Phillip Lim Fall RTW 18
Richard Malone Fall RTW 18
Fyodor Golan Fall RTW 18
Gabriela Hearst Fall RTW 18
Calvin Klein Fall RTW 18

THE RIGHT FLUFF

 

Fur trim is no longer just for outerwear. As seen in the current Norman Norell exhibit at The Museum at FIT,  the plush detail adds a sense of luxury to suits, blazers, sweaters and woven tops. The fur can be real or faux and is seen in natural tones or dyed pastels. Extra-deep fur cuffs look new, but designers also use it to encircle a pullover’s entire forearm or apply it in sections along the sleeve.

INSPIRATIONS: The Museum at FIT
Norell: Dean of American Fashion
Special Exhibitions Gallery
February 9, 2018 – April 14, 2018
(LEFT) Oatmeal wool fur-trimmed suit, 1967.
(RIGHT) Red and black checked fur-trimmed suit, 1962

ALL ABOUT YVES

We just returned from Paris where we visited the recently opened Le Musée Yves Saint Laurent and felt a renewed appreciation for the venerable designer. Apparently, we are not the only ones. Marc Jacobs, in particular, celebrated YSL’s generous volumes, dramatic bows — and most of all — his glorious sense of color. There was even a harlequin print dress, in direct homage. Stay tuned for more influences from the late 70s to 80s this season.

Marc Jacobs Fall RTW 18
Marc Jacobs Fall RTW 18
Marc Jacobs Fall RTW 18
Inspiration: YSL Pink Blouse Purple Jacket
Inspiration: YSL 1980s
Marc Jacobs Fall RTW 18

 

 

THE RIGHT FLUFF

Fur trim is no longer just for outerwear. As seen in the current Norman Norell exhibit at The Museum at FIT,  the plush detail adds a sense of luxury to suits, blazers, sweaters and woven tops. The fur can be real or faux, and is seen in natural tones or dyed pastels. Extra-deep fur cuffs look new, but designers also use it to encircle a pullover’s entire forearm or apply it in sections along the sleeve.

INSPIRATION: The Museum at FIT
Norell: Dean of American Fashion
Special Exhibitions Gallery
February 9, 2018 – April 14, 2018
(LEFT) Oatmeal wool fur-trimmed suit, 1967.
(RIGHT) Red and black checked fur-trimmed suit, 1962

THE SATIN SLOUCH

 

Satin pants are a thing. Perhaps spurred by Raf Simons shiny trousers for his men’s and women’s collections, the shiny fabric appears all over the runways, cut into slouchy tailored shapes or polished track pants. The look works for day or evening, suited with a matching jacket, dressed up with a fancy brocade top or casually topped with a sweater. Colors include the season’s bright yellow, military neutrals or new dusty pinks.

Sies Marjan Fall/Winter RTW 18
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter RTW 18
Jil Stuart Fall/Winter RTW 18
Derek Lam Fall/Winter RTW 18
Naeem Khan Fall RTW 18
Nanushka Fall/Winter RTW 18

I HEART TEXTURE

 

Textured sweaters are all the rage on the New York runways, and look especially fetching in candy-heart shades like coral, cotton candy pink and Valentine red. There are creative cables, high stand necklines, rough topstitches and fat rosettes adding extra interest to cozy pullovers. Novelty sleeves continue to gain momentum and distressed details (like placed runs) keep all the sweet colors from getting too precious.

Hellessy Fall RTW 18
Ulla Johnson Fall RTW 18
Prabal Gurung Fall RTW 18
Alejandra Alonso Rojas Fall RTW 18
Pyer Moss Fall RTW 18
Son Jung Wan Fall RTW 18

GOOD EGG

 

Egg yolk yellow is emerging as THE color of Fall 2018. The RTW runways (and audience members) radiate with variations of gold, honey, ochre and mustard. The hue works well for accent pieces, as type or a graphic on a sweatshirt, or styled as head-to-toe monochrome ensembles. Crushed velvets, varnished vinyls, plush sweater knits, and layered sheers add depth and dimension to this vibrant shade.

Bottega Veneta New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Milly New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018

Bottega Veneta New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Ulla Johnson New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018