The penchant for fringe and the lust for glitter come together in tinsel-like trim. Sparkling strips enliven fringe skirts or are used as an allover look to create intense texture. The festive strands — whether they are sequin-covered, metallic yarns or cut from Day-Glo plastic — work for everything from ironic Coco-inspired tweeds to smooth techno pieces. Most beguiling, perhaps, is the mysterious allure created when long tinsel peeks out from beneath a menswear suit.
The padded scarf has been edging its way onto runways for a few years, but this season it seems to be taking hold. There are rich jacquard versions, floral prints, leopard patterns and reversible solids. Some take the shape of a shawl (like a tiny portable duvet) or a shawl-jacket hybrid. Embellishments include fringed edges, toggle drawstrings, or pyramid-shaped brass studs.
Stripes are coming in from all directions for next fall. Mitered placements and sharp angles elevate the pattern from the classic to the unconventional. Uneven spacing, varied widths and vivid color provide more newness, as do textural stitches and head-to-toe styling — right down to the striped tights.
Mulberry London Fall RTW 18Phillip Lim Fall RTW 18Richard Malone Fall RTW 18Fyodor Golan Fall RTW 18Gabriela Hearst Fall RTW 18Calvin Klein Fall RTW 18
Stripes are coming in from all directions for next fall. Mitered placements and sharp angles elevate the pattern from the classic to the unconventional. Uneven spacing, varied widths and vivid color provide more newness, as do textural stitches and head-to-toe styling — right down to the striped tights.
Mulberry London Fall RTW 18Phillip Lim Fall RTW 18Richard Malone Fall RTW 18Fyodor Golan Fall RTW 18Gabriela Hearst Fall RTW 18Calvin Klein Fall RTW 18
Fur trim is no longer just for outerwear. As seen in the current Norman Norell exhibit at The Museum at FIT, the plush detail adds a sense of luxury to suits, blazers, sweaters and woven tops. The fur can be real or faux and is seen in natural tones or dyed pastels. Extra-deep fur cuffs look new, but designers also use it to encircle a pullover’s entire forearm or apply it in sections along the sleeve.
INSPIRATIONS: The Museum at FIT Norell: Dean of American Fashion Special Exhibitions Gallery February 9, 2018 – April 14, 2018 (LEFT) Oatmeal wool fur-trimmed suit, 1967. (RIGHT) Red and black checked fur-trimmed suit, 1962
We just returned from Paris where we visited the recently opened Le Musée Yves Saint Laurent and felt a renewed appreciation for the venerable designer. Apparently, we are not the only ones. Marc Jacobs, in particular, celebrated YSL’s generous volumes, dramatic bows — and most of all — his glorious sense of color. There was even a harlequin print dress, in direct homage. Stay tuned for more influences from the late 70s to 80s this season.
Marc Jacobs Fall RTW 18Marc Jacobs Fall RTW 18Marc Jacobs Fall RTW 18Inspiration: YSL Pink Blouse Purple JacketInspiration: YSL 1980sMarc Jacobs Fall RTW 18
Fur trim is no longer just for outerwear. As seen in the current Norman Norell exhibit at The Museum at FIT, the plush detail adds a sense of luxury to suits, blazers, sweaters and woven tops. The fur can be real or faux, and is seen in natural tones or dyed pastels. Extra-deep fur cuffs look new, but designers also use it to encircle a pullover’s entire forearm or apply it in sections along the sleeve.
INSPIRATION: The Museum at FIT Norell: Dean of American Fashion Special Exhibitions Gallery February 9, 2018 – April 14, 2018 (LEFT) Oatmeal wool fur-trimmed suit, 1967. (RIGHT) Red and black checked fur-trimmed suit, 1962
Satin pants are a thing. Perhaps spurred by Raf Simons shiny trousers for his men’s and women’s collections, the shiny fabric appears all over the runways, cut into slouchy tailored shapes or polished track pants. The look works for day or evening, suited with a matching jacket, dressed up with a fancy brocade top or casually topped with a sweater. Colors include the season’s bright yellow, military neutrals or new dusty pinks.
Sies Marjan Fall/Winter RTW 18Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter RTW 18Jil Stuart Fall/Winter RTW 18Derek Lam Fall/Winter RTW 18Naeem Khan Fall RTW 18Nanushka Fall/Winter RTW 18
Textured sweaters are all the rage on the New York runways, and look especially fetching in candy-heart shades like coral, cotton candy pink and Valentine red. There are creative cables, high stand necklines, rough topstitches and fat rosettes adding extra interest to cozy pullovers. Novelty sleeves continue to gain momentum and distressed details (like placed runs) keep all the sweet colors from getting too precious.
Hellessy Fall RTW 18Ulla Johnson Fall RTW 18Prabal Gurung Fall RTW 18Alejandra Alonso Rojas Fall RTW 18Pyer Moss Fall RTW 18Son Jung Wan Fall RTW 18
Egg yolk yellow is emerging as THE color of Fall 2018. The RTW runways (and audience members) radiate with variations of gold, honey, ochre and mustard. The hue works well for accent pieces, as type or a graphic on a sweatshirt, or styled as head-to-toe monochrome ensembles. Crushed velvets, varnished vinyls, plush sweater knits, and layered sheers add depth and dimension to this vibrant shade.
Bottega Veneta New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018Milly New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Bottega Veneta New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018Ulla Johnson New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018