Safari garb can be endlessly reinvented while still retaining its utilitarian roots. For next spring designers inject newness into the tried-and-true influence with filmy nylons, tech touches, pieced fabrics and surprising prints. Cargo pockets are flat or gusseted, and plenty of snaps, tabs and zips work as both fashion and function. In general the palette is softer, with muted neutrals and bright pops that work for any urban jungle.
Pinstriped suiting, a venerable staple of traditional menswear garb, takes a walk on the wild side in the current Men’s SS20 collections. Fresh takes for this staid classic include roughed-up tailoring with unfinished edges, jackets treated as shirts, shorts sets, pleated skirts and bomber jackets. Unconventional treatments breathe new life into a classic fabric, taking it out of the boardroom and into the street.
If the recent menswear runways are any indication, fluorescent shades will be big for next Spring. Neon and nearly-neon brights showed up on sweatshirts, sweaters, woven tops and casual bottoms, and look especially right for warm-weather outerwear pieces like a featherweight parka. There were even neons used for tailored suits. The hues look great in bright color-blocks or 70s style supergraphics, or in little touches as appliqués or accessories. Many designers combined the fluos with a neutral like gray, olive or khaki, giving the beachy brights a nice urban twist.
Tracksuits lose their tacky reputation and make a hipster-approved comeback. The new sets are made from tech fabrics or cotton blends, and get their newness from contrast details, cuff treatments and an easy, somewhat tailored, fit. We’ve seen the jogging-pant versions on the street this summer, but expect to see short-suits next spring.
The showers that bring spring flowers rarely keep city dwellers inside. For next Spring/Summer expect men to take to the streets in fashion-forward raincoats and parkas in sheer nylons or new soft vinyls. These featherweight slickers come in solids or prints, and can be sophisticated enough to layer over a tailored suit or playful enough to adapt for young men or even kidswear. Lengths range from fingertip to almost-ankle; hoods and drawstring hems are key.
Floral prints abound on S19 menswear runways. There are packed blossoms, flat flower-power daisies, lush roses and little ditsies, all used for woven shirts, jackets, smooth knits or screened onto tees. A single bloom can be painted onto a suit jacket or heat-transfered onto a trench coat. For the true flower-lover, there are even posey-printed pants and jeans.
At first glance the newest graphic pullovers seem geared more to toddlers than trendsters. Screen-printed tees and intarsia sweaters are emblazoned with Saturday morning favorites from Simpsons to manga; others sport images from vintage comics or monster movies like Godzilla. A dark ground and a good dose of irony keeps it all feeling grown-up.
Tracksuits lose their tacky reputation and make a hipster-approved comeback. The new sets are made from tech fabrics or cotton blends, and get their newness from contrast details, cuff treatments and an easy, somewhat tailored, fit. We’ve seen the jogging-pant versions on the street this summer, but expect to see short-suits next spring.
Chinoiserie prints and exotic animal motifs make a powerful statement on the runway this fall. Silk dresses or leather jackets are the perfect foundation for dragon embroideries or appliqués. There is even a dragon-shaped handle for a stylized pair of lorgnette sunglasses. Cheongsam styling, cherry blossom prints, kimonos and silky lacquer red pajamas underline the eastern theme — just in time for Chinese New Year.
