Lacy doilies, once thought of as a relic of stuffy Victorian interiors, are newly appreciated as artifacts of a pre-feminist past. The mandala-like bits of lace were mostly handmade, and speak of a time when women, with few creative outlets, made beautiful yet anonymous things for the home or to give as gifts. This season, the trend for crochet gives way to a more delicate tatted lace, used for tops, dresses, ponchos and accessories. Pure white or tea-stained beiges emphasize the doily feel.
The fine-gauge jersey turtleneck, a key item for layering, moves forward with prints. Geometrics, pen-and-ink scribbles, abstract leopard spots or florals are printed on smooth or ribbed knits or stretch velvets. The tops work on their own or are styled under other tees, polos or dresses, adding a fall-appropriate layer while providing visual interest.
Moiré, that weave or pattern with its distinctive woodgrain or “watered” effect, is making a subtle but strong impression for next season. Designers used it for matched sets, silky tops, lustrous pants and lingerie looks, as well as for footwear and accessories. The lustrous fabric lends itself to petal colors like pink and mauve, metallic effects, and constructions using opposing grains. Most important is a casual attitude, offsetting moiré’s formal roots.
Hoods are happening for next fall, and not just for hoodies or outerwear. Cut-and-sew pullovers — in ribbed jerseys or stretchy stocking-weight nylons — have snug-fitting head-coverings that extend from turtlenecks. While many hoods are built-in, there are also free-standing balaclava versions with hand-knitted appeal.
Last fall was all about blue velvet, but for next season the plush, lustrous fabric warms up in sumptuous shades of peach, berry, deep ochre, lush olive and creamy ecru. The velvet itself can be woven or knit, smooth or crushed. Day-glo drawstrings or contrast piping give head-to-toe velvet ensembles a sporty edge.