Many of the knits and crochets coming down New York runways have a distinctly ’70s feel. There are Missoni-inspired flame stitches, body-hugging ribbed jerseys, lurex stripes, lacy crochets and placed macramé effects — some ornamented with geode slices. These crafty textiles are mostly used for easy dresses that hit anywhere from mid-thigh to ankle. Just like in the seventies, all lengths are welcome.
Moiré, that weave or pattern with its distinctive woodgrain or “watered” effect, is making a subtle but strong impression for next season. Designers used it for matched sets, silky tops, lustrous pants and lingerie looks, as well as for footwear and accessories. The lustrous fabric lends itself to petal colors like pink and mauve, metallic effects, and constructions using opposing grains. Most important is a casual attitude, offsetting moiré’s formal roots.
We just returned from Paris where we visited the recently opened Le Musée Yves Saint Laurent and felt a renewed appreciation for the venerable designer. Apparently, we are not the only ones. Marc Jacobs, in particular, celebrated YSL’s generous volumes, dramatic bows — and most of all — his glorious sense of color. There was even a harlequin print dress, in direct homage. Stay tuned for more influences from the late 70s to 80s this season.
Designers seem to be channeling that moment in the 1960s when Wrangler released jeans in fashion colors, bringing a feminine twist to the cowboy dungarees for which the company was known. For next spring, clean nature-based shades like browns, greens and reds look right in classic 5-pocket styles, chore jackets or truckers. Sharply contrasting topstitching is a must.
While comic-book graphics abound this season, there is a more subtle interpretation in the form of ben-day dots. The dots were used in 19th and 20th century printing to achieve half-tone tints, or were overlapped to create blended shades. The effect was borrowed and exaggerated by the 60s pop artists, particularly Roy Lichtenstein. Some designers used a rough, broken “registration” for their dots to mimic the imperfect comic-strip effect. For embellishments and accessories, evenly spaced beads or half-dome cabochons deliver the same visual “pow”.
For next spring the elements of grunge — the freeform layers, the dresses over pants, the plaids, the little-girl frocks and ripped lingerie, the Birks worn with socks — all take a decidedly ladylike turn. Grittiness is transformed into prettiness with lovely color, delicate sheers and upholstery florals. but the rebel spirit lives on in oversized proportions and a palpable sense of anarchy.
With the abundance of velvet saturating the runways in recent seasons it’s no surprise that corduroy, the plush material’s workwear cousin, has emerged in full force for fall’s daytime looks. Paired with cozy sweaters, hefty wide wale cords take the shape of slouchy pants and roomy sack skirts, while fine pincord is cut into 70s-inspired pantsuits. New ways with the material include novel XXL wales and unexpected piecing with luxe fur, but the familiar earthy brown palette maintains a classic, vintage feel.