Drawstrings are no longer for sloppy sweats or casual hoodies. The new breed of drawstring appears on polished skirts, pants and dresses, providing an adjustable fit and a sense of ease. Designers used the strings in unexpected ways: wide tape creates a “bunched” hemline, or a self-fabric sash gathers in a halter neckline.
The long shirt makes an appearance in some of the most forward-thinking collections for next fall, underscoring the current movement toward modesty as well as renewed interest in work-appropriate clothes. The silhouettes are mostly slim yet easy, with extra-long sleeves emphasizing the laid-back feel. Designers showed these in geometric prints or solids, and added novelty in the form of super-elongated long collars, draped effects or zip closures. The season’s silky scarf accessorizes, either casually wrapped or knotted under the collar to create a soft necktie.
Another classic pattern getting an update this season is the houndstooth check. Along with its traditional cousins (like tartans and buffalo checks), houndstooth looks fresh when enlarged into medium or giant scales. The jagged motif is used for everything from neat coats to tailored capes, from wide-leg pants to string-bikini bottoms. There are even printed versions for silky tops or dresses.
Intarsia sweaters have officially lost their tacky “ugly Chistmas swater” stigma. The streets of fashion capitals are awash in knits with jacquarded graphics, most specifically Alberta Ferretti’s “days of the week” sweaters, Loewe’s sophisticated fair-isles, and Raf Simons’ oversized ‘I Love NY” pullover. These designer versions are all sold out, but new interpretations are sure to catch on for next fall.
Home furnishing fabrics abound this season, adding an unexpectedly lush note to the usually featherweight materials used for spring. There are needlepoints, tapestries and matelassés, brocades worthy of Marie Antoinette’s sitting room at Versailles and kitschy bedspread chenilles that would be at home in a 50s trailer park. Quilted or trapunto effects and bound or fringed edges underline the upholstery feel.