Drawstrings are no longer for sloppy sweats or casual hoodies. The new breed of drawstring appears on polished skirts, pants and dresses, providing an adjustable fit and a sense of ease. Designers used the strings in unexpected ways: wide tape creates a “bunched” hemline, or a self-fabric sash gathers in a halter neckline.
Pen and ink is having a moment. Black lines against a white ground inform prints, embroideries and intarsias; motifs suggest astrological diagrams, toiles, Aubrey Beardsley curlicues or vintage illustrations. Dior even used a model drawing with ink and brush for their Spring 18 campaign, emphasizing the timeless sensuality of the hand-drawn line.
On the very first day of NYFW for Spring 18, Kim Kardashian attended the Tom Ford show wearing a slithery black latex dress by indie Queens-born designer LaQuan Smith, known for his body-hugging fits and hip-high slits. The shiny black was a harbinger of looks on runways in all four major cities. Several collections showed glossy coated fabrics, patent leathers or vinyl in inky blacks or the occasional lacquered lipstick red. There were prim ruffled skirts, mid-century frocks, tailored pants and precise blazers, making these high-gloss materials more about fashion than fetish.
Stripes get wider, bolder and more colorful for next spring. Whether duotone and evenly spaced awning stripes or multi-colored, multi-width bayadere versions, graphic bands of color enliven shorts, dresses, knits and accessories. Pieced constructions, diagonal placements, wavy layouts or mixes of different striped patterns bring more newness.