Lacy doilies, once thought of as a relic of stuffy Victorian interiors, are newly appreciated as artifacts of a pre-feminist past. The mandala-like bits of lace were mostly handmade, and speak of a time when women, with few creative outlets, made beautiful yet anonymous things for the home or to give as gifts. This season, the trend for crochet gives way to a more delicate tatted lace, used for tops, dresses, ponchos and accessories. Pure white or tea-stained beiges emphasize the doily feel.

Isabel Marant, Spring-Summer 2020
Christian Dior, Spring-Summer 2020
Marine Serre, Spring-Summer 2020
Rokh, Spring-Summer 2020
Christian Dior, Spring-Summer 2020
Jonathan Simkhai, Spring-Summer 2020


Many of the knits and crochets coming down New York runways have a distinctly ’70s feel. There are Missoni-inspired flame stitches, body-hugging ribbed jerseys, lurex stripes, lacy crochets and placed macramé effects — some ornamented with geode slices. These crafty textiles are mostly used for easy dresses that hit anywhere from mid-thigh to ankle. Just like in the seventies, all lengths are welcome.

Concept Korea Spring-Summer 2020
Anna Sui Spring-Summer 2020
Zimmermann Spring-Summer 2020
Gabriela Hearst Spring-Summer 2020
Jonathan Simkhai Spring-Summer 2020
Marc Jacobs Spring-Summer 2020