Lacy doilies, once thought of as a relic of stuffy Victorian interiors, are newly appreciated as artifacts of a pre-feminist past. The mandala-like bits of lace were mostly handmade, and speak of a time when women, with few creative outlets, made beautiful yet anonymous things for the home or to give as gifts. This season, the trend for crochet gives way to a more delicate tatted lace, used for tops, dresses, ponchos and accessories. Pure white or tea-stained beiges emphasize the doily feel.
Intarsia sweaters have long moved past sentimental holiday signifiers and pretend folklorists. The newest designs are big and bold, often showing off a craftiness that includes trailing threads or “reverse side” effects. Some sweaters mix intarsia with knitted appliqués or yarn embroideries, adding dimension to placed motifs.
In troubled times we need our blankeys. Luckily cozy wraps uptrend for next fall, whether it’s a big plaid throw worn shawl-style, or versions cut as ponchos, ruanas or capes. Jacquard wovens ensure that both sides are worth showing, and fringed or bound edges add to the authentic blanket feel.
Chinoiserie prints and exotic animal motifs make a powerful statement on the runway this fall. Silk dresses or leather jackets are the perfect foundation for dragon embroideries or appliqués. There is even a dragon-shaped handle for a stylized pair of lorgnette sunglasses. Cheongsam styling, cherry blossom prints, kimonos and silky lacquer red pajamas underline the eastern theme — just in time for Chinese New Year.
Warm shades of Burgundy and Bordeaux emerge as a fresh alternative to classic navy. Much like the universal dark blue, these wine tones are an understated way to wear head-to-toe monochrome color. Tints vary from garnet to plum, and look especially fresh in tonal layers or paired in floral motifs.