Leather and pleather abound for next fall, looking freshest in cosmetic shades like beige, blush, mocha and camel. Real or faux skins in this new palette are used for for everything from trench coats to tailored suits, soft tops and crisp shirtdresses. Surfaces can be matte, buffed or high-shine. Super-supple qualities are shown off with plenty of gathers, ruched details at sleeves or channel elastic at neckline or waist.
Even when an item is a perennial, there are subtle shifts in material, proportion and silhouette that move the piece forward and speak of the “now”. Such is the case with this season’s trench coat. The newest must-have versions are boxy, with a straight, waistless shape. Firm fabrics or smooth leathers uphold the rectangular silhouette, and bellows pockets or flat-flaps echo the squared-off aesthetic. Sleeveless styles offer lots of options for easy layering. Most of the boxy trenches on the runways are minimalist, but Prada decorated the extended shoulders and flaps with an array of cabochons and colorful paillettes.
Sometimes it’s the little things that make an item look new. For next spring it’s all about the tape. Designers use twill trim, grosgrain ribbon, jacquard logo tape and other narrow goods as closures, zip pulls and in place of drawstrings for gathered details. These tape-ties give garments a contemporary, industrial feel and enable wearers to customize the look and shape of their clothes, in keeping with the demand for versatility and easy-fits.