SAFARI CITY

Safari garb can be endlessly reinvented while still retaining its utilitarian roots. For next spring designers inject newness into the tried-and-true influence with filmy nylons, tech touches, pieced fabrics and surprising prints. Cargo pockets are flat or gusseted, and plenty of snaps, tabs and zips work as both fashion and function. In general the palette is softer, with muted neutrals and bright pops that work for any urban jungle.

Acne Studios Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
Dries Van Noten Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
Sunnei Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
Dior Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
Fendi Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
MSGM Spring – Summer Menswear 2020

A BIT OF STRUCTURE

In a movement away from all the big and slouchy carryalls or teeny-tiny “necklace bags”, the small and structured bag is looking just right. Big enough to make a statement and petite enough to go from day to dinner, the neat bag will bring a polished note to everything from wear-it-to-work looks to casual dresses and jeans. Many have dual handles — one short and one for shoulder or cross-body — making these perfectly-proportioned handbags even more versatile. Ornamental closures and surface decorations add more interest.

Fendi Resort 2019
Valentino Resort 2019
No. 21 Resort 2019
See by Chloe
Rochas Resort 2019
Rag and Bone Resort 2019

A BIT OF STRUCTURE

In a movement away from all the big and slouchy carryalls or teeny-tiny “necklace bags”, the small and structured bag is looking just right. Big enough to make a statement and petite enough to go from day to dinner, the neat bag will bring a polished note to everything from wear-it-to-work looks to casual dresses and jeans. Many have dual handles — one short and one for shoulder or cross-body — making these perfectly-proportioned handbags even more versatile. Ornamental closures and surface decorations add more interest.

Fendi Resort 2019
Valentino Resort 2019
No. 21 Resort 2019
See by Chloe
Rochas Resort 2019
Rag and Bone Resort 2019

TOTALLY TUBULAR

Socks are a thing, especially sport socks. For next Resort season, the lowly tube sock is elevated with engineered details like sheer insets, jacquarded logos and fresh color. Stripes can be horizontal or vertical, placed allover or just at top cuff. While some designers show the socks with sneakers, they look newest when incongruously styled with ladylike pumps or punk-flavored pointy flats.

Fendi Resort 2019
Preen Line Resort 2019
Iceberg Resort 2019
Re/Done Resort 2019
MSGM Resort 2019
Chloe Resort 2019

THE DISCREET CHARM OF THE BOURGEOISIE

Some of the best looks being shown for next Cruise channel a haute bourgeoisie look, replete with ladylike separates and status-scarf motifs. Gold jewelry is part of the look, as are gold chain belts, specator pumps and tailored shoulder or top-handle handbags. Items include bow blouses, printed bermudas, softly pleated or straight skirts and neat bootcut pants. The new penchant for logo prints shows itself as borders, facing for a lapel, or an ornamental motif for hoop earrings.

MSGM Resort 2019
Bottega Veneta Resort 2019
Gucci Resort 2019
Fendi Resort 2019
Chloe Resort 2019
Louis Vuitton Resort 2019

THE RETURN OF P.I.B.

 

Pants tucked into boots looks right again. The styling approach was recently dubbed PiB (Pants in Boots) by Man Repeller‘s blogger Anna Gray, who writes: “They make me think of Amelia Earhart; of women stomping in puddles on their way to work, riding bikes up rocky trails and climbing mountains.”  PiB was evident all over fashion month streets as well as on the fall runways. The adventurous look works with slim or slouchy trousers, most often tucked into mid-shaft boots — key footwear for next season.

Milan Street FW19
Miu Miu Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Paris Street FW19
Paris Street FW19
Fendi Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Alberta Ferretti Fall/Winter RTW 2018

THE RETURN OF P.I.B.

 

Pants tucked into boots looks right again. The styling approach was recently dubbed PiB (Pants in Boots) by Man Repeller‘s blogger Anna Gray, who writes: “They make me think of Amelia Earhart; of women stomping in puddles on their way to work, riding bikes up rocky trails and climbing mountains.”  PiB was evident all over fashion month streets as well as on the fall runways. The adventurous look works with slim or slouchy trousers, most often tucked into mid-shaft boots — key footwear for next season.

Milan Street FW19
Miu Miu Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Paris Street FW19
Paris Street FW19
Fendi Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Alberta Ferretti Fall/Winter RTW 2018

TAILORED SCULPTURE

 

Tailoring takes a sculptural turn for next fall. Arms are rounded, torsos are nipped, shoulders are draped and hips are molded. Fabrics with body are essential, often reinforced with padding, facing, plastic coatings or clever cuts. Simple menswear tweeds or plaids give ballast to these somewhat avant-garde shapes, making them more approachable.

IT’S A PLAID PLAID WORLD

Plaids rule the pre-fall collections and are already showing up on men’s fall 18 runways. All kinds of plaids work: tartans, buffalo checks, tiny gun-checks, Prince-of-Wales layouts, box plaids, blanket plaids and more. Large-scaled versions look especially right, often ensembled with clashing or contrasting layers for a plaid-on-plaid effect. The pattern, which can go mid-century classic, 80s punk or 90s grunge, is used for bags, hats, socks and footwear as well.

Tomas Maier Pre Fall 2018
Gucci Pre Fall 2018
Marni Menswear Pre Fall 2018
Miu Miu Pre Fall 2018
No. 21 Pre Fall 2018
Sacai Pre Fall 2018
Fendi Pre Fall 2018

Radical Transparency

 

Perhaps it’s the current call for transparency in politics and business that is inspiring all the pellucid fabrics on the runways. These filmy layers are especially effective for see-through outerwear. Designers use clear plastic or chiffon (or plastic lined with chiffon), as well as coated organzas and parachute nylons for voluminous parkas or “shower cap” sneaker covers.  Plaid versions create pattern play with striped under-layers, and glistening paillettes add to the diaphanous feel.