TAILORED SCULPTURE

 

Tailoring takes a sculptural turn for next fall. Arms are rounded, torsos are nipped, shoulders are draped and hips are molded. Fabrics with body are essential, often reinforced with padding, facing, plastic coatings or clever cuts. Simple menswear tweeds or plaids give ballast to these somewhat avant-garde shapes, making them more approachable.

FOILED AGAIN

 

Foil-finish silvers are the preferred metallic for next season. A straight skirt gets a visual flash with an ultra-shiny reflective surface. Crinkled foil coatings have a softer effect, as in a silver-dipped pea coat. Metallic panels juxtapose with stripes and solids for a surprising dose of futurism on an otherwise simple shift dress. A distressed silver coating takes 5-pocket jeans to the next level. Silver’s neutral quality makes it a perfect choice for footwear and accessories.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter RTW 18
Arthur Arbesser Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dior Fall/Winter RTW 18
Calvin Klein Fall/Winter RTW 18
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter RTW 18
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter RTW 18

HANDMADE TALE

 

Patchwork, crochet, macramé, rough stitches and trailing threads are key signifiers of the maker movement, an aesthetic that is elevated on the runways with sleek silhouettes and witty exaggeration. Colorful bulky yarns are used for crafty sweaters, imperfect edging and fat embroideries; motifs suggest finger-painted scribbles or kindergarten florals.

Dior Fall/Winter RTW 18
Remix Fall/Winter RTW 18
Anrealage Fall/Winter RTW 18
Missoni Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ashish Fall/Winter RTW 18
Daniela Gregis Fall/Winter RTW 18

TINSEL TOWN

 

The penchant for fringe and the lust for glitter come together in tinsel-like trim. Sparkling strips enliven fringe skirts or are used as an allover look to create intense texture. The festive strands — whether they are sequin-covered, metallic yarns or cut from Day-Glo plastic — work for everything from ironic Coco-inspired tweeds to smooth techno pieces. Most beguiling, perhaps, is the mysterious allure created when long tinsel peeks out from beneath a menswear suit.

Gucci Fall/Winter RTW 18
Prada Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ashish Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ports 1961 Fall/Winter RTW 18
Libertine Fall/Winter RTW 18

DUVETS GET PERSONAL

The padded scarf has been edging its way onto runways for a few years, but this season it seems to be taking hold. There are rich jacquard versions, floral prints, leopard patterns and reversible solids. Some take the shape of a shawl (like a tiny portable duvet) or a shawl-jacket hybrid. Embellishments include fringed edges, toggle drawstrings, or pyramid-shaped brass studs.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Fall/Winter RTW 18
Phillip Lim Fall/Winter RTW 18
Michael Kors Fall/Winter RTW 18
Fashion East Fall/Winter RTW 18
Roksanda Ilincic Fall/Winter RTW 18
Jil Sander Fall/Winter RTW 18

WILD THINGS

 

The leopard coat, an outerwear staple of fashion icons and influencers, emerges as a key item this season in a variety of iterations. Updated silhouettes include oversized duffels, trim trenches, and patchwork furs, while classic tailored versions are still relevant. Additional newness comes from exaggerated proportions and stylized motifs, some featuring colorful overdyes or pattern mix.