KEEPING TRACK

Tracksuits lose their tacky reputation and make a hipster-approved comeback. The new sets are made from tech fabrics or cotton blends, and get their newness from contrast details, cuff treatments and an easy, somewhat tailored, fit. We’ve seen the jogging-pant versions on the street this summer, but expect to see short-suits next spring.

Iceberg Menswear SS19
Juun J Menswear SS19
Liam Hodges Menswear SS19
Dsquared2 Menswear SS19
MSGM Menswear SS19
Charles Jeffrey Menswear SS19

REFINED WEST

Western-inspired looks are gracing the runway again this season, but this time it’s about specific elements rather than a head-to-toe effect. Classic Western shirts are complemented by statement trousers like leather jodhpurs, high-waisted trousers or plaid pants, freshening up the trend. Simple yet strong details include bolo ties, embroidered yokes, fringe, and re-thought cowboy boots will give any ensemble a touch of the Western feeling.

Dsquared2 Milan Fashion Week Men Fall Winter 2018-19 Milan January 2018
Haider Ackermann Paris Fashion Week Men Fall Winter 2018-19 Paris January 2018
Dries Van Noten Paris Fashion Week Men Fall Winter 2018-19 Paris January 2018
N 21 Milan Fashion Week Men Fall Winter 2018-19 Milan January 2018
Maison Margiela Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2018 Paris Sept-Oct 2017
Acne Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2018 Paris September/October 2017
Dries Van Noten Paris Fashion Week Men Fall Winter 2018-19 Paris January 2018

JOY LUCK CLUB

Chinoiserie prints and exotic animal motifs make a powerful statement on the runway this fall. Silk dresses or leather jackets are the perfect foundation for dragon embroideries or appliqués. There is even a dragon-shaped handle for a stylized pair of lorgnette sunglasses. Cheongsam styling, cherry blossom prints, kimonos and silky lacquer red pajamas underline the eastern theme — just in time for Chinese New Year.

Edward Crutchley Menswear Fall 18
Haider Ackermann Menswear Fall 18
Dennis Basso Pre-Fall 18
Isabel Marant Pre-Fall 18
Xander Zhou Menswear Fall 18
Marni Menswear Fall 18
Xander Zhou Menswear Fall 18

 

SURVIVAL KIT

Much of the clothing on the Fall Menswear runways suggests or outright imitates survival gear. There are protective coatings, industrial tapes holding keys or extra shoes, all kinds of drawstrings & zipped pockets, ballistic nylons — even identity tags. A bit of handicraft, like a crochet detail on a sweater, will warm up the techno aesthetic.