TAILORED SCULPTURE

 

Tailoring takes a sculptural turn for next fall. Arms are rounded, torsos are nipped, shoulders are draped and hips are molded. Fabrics with body are essential, often reinforced with padding, facing, plastic coatings or clever cuts. Simple menswear tweeds or plaids give ballast to these somewhat avant-garde shapes, making them more approachable.

FOILED AGAIN

 

Foil-finish silvers are the preferred metallic for next season. A straight skirt gets a visual flash with an ultra-shiny reflective surface. Crinkled foil coatings have a softer effect, as in a silver-dipped pea coat. Metallic panels juxtapose with stripes and solids for a surprising dose of futurism on an otherwise simple shift dress. A distressed silver coating takes 5-pocket jeans to the next level. Silver’s neutral quality makes it a perfect choice for footwear and accessories.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter RTW 18
Arthur Arbesser Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dior Fall/Winter RTW 18
Calvin Klein Fall/Winter RTW 18
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter RTW 18
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter RTW 18

HANDMADE TALE

 

Patchwork, crochet, macramé, rough stitches and trailing threads are key signifiers of the maker movement, an aesthetic that is elevated on the runways with sleek silhouettes and witty exaggeration. Colorful bulky yarns are used for crafty sweaters, imperfect edging and fat embroideries; motifs suggest finger-painted scribbles or kindergarten florals.

Dior Fall/Winter RTW 18
Remix Fall/Winter RTW 18
Anrealage Fall/Winter RTW 18
Missoni Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ashish Fall/Winter RTW 18
Daniela Gregis Fall/Winter RTW 18

TINSEL TOWN

 

The penchant for fringe and the lust for glitter come together in tinsel-like trim. Sparkling strips enliven fringe skirts or are used as an allover look to create intense texture. The festive strands — whether they are sequin-covered, metallic yarns or cut from Day-Glo plastic — work for everything from ironic Coco-inspired tweeds to smooth techno pieces. Most beguiling, perhaps, is the mysterious allure created when long tinsel peeks out from beneath a menswear suit.

Gucci Fall/Winter RTW 18
Prada Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ashish Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ports 1961 Fall/Winter RTW 18
Libertine Fall/Winter RTW 18

DUVETS GET PERSONAL

The padded scarf has been edging its way onto runways for a few years, but this season it seems to be taking hold. There are rich jacquard versions, floral prints, leopard patterns and reversible solids. Some take the shape of a shawl (like a tiny portable duvet) or a shawl-jacket hybrid. Embellishments include fringed edges, toggle drawstrings, or pyramid-shaped brass studs.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Fall/Winter RTW 18
Phillip Lim Fall/Winter RTW 18
Michael Kors Fall/Winter RTW 18
Fashion East Fall/Winter RTW 18
Roksanda Ilincic Fall/Winter RTW 18
Jil Sander Fall/Winter RTW 18

STRIPE POWER

 

Stripes are coming in from all directions for next fall. Mitered placements and sharp angles elevate the pattern from the classic to the unconventional. Uneven spacing, varied widths and vivid color provide more newness, as do textural stitches and head-to-toe styling — right down to the striped tights.

Mulberry London Fall RTW 18
Phillip Lim Fall RTW 18
Richard Malone Fall RTW 18
Fyodor Golan Fall RTW 18
Gabriela Hearst Fall RTW 18
Calvin Klein Fall RTW 18

MORE YOUNG VICTORIANS

PROPHESY/PROOF: Sometimes an influence continues to evolve for several seasons. Such is the case with the Victorian looks coming down the runways, a look identified in our Spring 18 Trend Tale called Antiqk. High necklines, delicate ruffles, floral upholstery fabrics and black ribbon ties still look right. Newness arrives in the form of spider-webby crochet insets and romanticized running suits where lace appliqués take the place of active stripes.

Bora Aksu London Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-2019 London February 2018
Brock New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Zimmermann New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
antiqk inspiration
Self Portrait New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-1019 NYC February 2018
Naeem Khan New York Womenswear Fall Winter 2018-2019 NYC February 2018

SCARF DANCE

 

It was fitting that the Queen, with her famous love of scarves, was in the front row at Richard Quinn’s show. Quinn, the first recipient of Her Majesty’s British Design Award, seemed to use scarves as a starting point for his mix of florals and baroque curlicues; most of these madcap ensembles were complete with a silk square tied under the chin, babushka-style. Several other designers used scarves as accessories or as design elements — like a flowing panel on a tailored shirt or border-printed pajama sets.

Gucci Fall/Winter RTW 18
Richard Quinn Fall/Winter RTW 18
Oscar de la Renta Fall/Winter RTW 18
Inspiration: Queen Elizabeth II at the annual Windsor Horse Show (2009)
Richard Quinn Fall/Winter RTW 18
Phillip Lim Fall/Winter RTW 18

STRIPE POWER

Stripes are coming in from all directions for next fall. Mitered placements and sharp angles elevate the pattern from the classic to the unconventional. Uneven spacing, varied widths and vivid color provide more newness, as do textural stitches and head-to-toe styling — right down to the striped tights.

Mulberry London Fall RTW 18
Phillip Lim Fall RTW 18
Richard Malone Fall RTW 18
Fyodor Golan Fall RTW 18
Gabriela Hearst Fall RTW 18
Calvin Klein Fall RTW 18

THE RIGHT FLUFF

 

Fur trim is no longer just for outerwear. As seen in the current Norman Norell exhibit at The Museum at FIT,  the plush detail adds a sense of luxury to suits, blazers, sweaters and woven tops. The fur can be real or faux and is seen in natural tones or dyed pastels. Extra-deep fur cuffs look new, but designers also use it to encircle a pullover’s entire forearm or apply it in sections along the sleeve.

INSPIRATIONS: The Museum at FIT
Norell: Dean of American Fashion
Special Exhibitions Gallery
February 9, 2018 – April 14, 2018
(LEFT) Oatmeal wool fur-trimmed suit, 1967.
(RIGHT) Red and black checked fur-trimmed suit, 1962