After seasons of 70s Bohemians, fashion skips back a decade with 60s Mod mania, complete with structured shapes, happy colors and plenty of minis. Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior believes the look encapsulates what young customers are looking for right now: “Something graphic and clean, minimal and positive. Because I think we have to give an optimistic outlook to the future.”The look evolves for next spring with nearly neon hues, eye-catching placed motifs and graphic cutouts, whether a squared-off neckline or triangular openings at midriff or sides. Items include sleeveless or halter-neck shifts and bright A-line miniskirts. Get ready for a new “youthquake”.
The colors, prints and shapes of Mexico were a touchpoint for several designers this season, whether explicitly stated in show notes or inferred in a monkey print or a bit of serape striping. The reference shows itself in palm trees, embroidered florals, ball-fringe borders and folkloric motifs, all reinterpreted in a non-literal, modern way. White cotton eyelet brings freshness to the mix, and touches of black provide a nice contrast to pales or brights. The full skirt is a key element here, hitting anywhere from knee to ankle, and best cinched with a wide belt.
Flat quilting, the kind usually used for industrial protection, gets an elegant turn for fall. There are diamond quilted jackets, circle skirts that borrow from bedspreads, and skirts that mimic moving blankets. While the thought of extra padding for apparel may make some cringe, lightweight constructions and clever cuts make these pieces wearable and desirable.