After seasons of 70s Bohemians, fashion skips back a decade with 60s Mod mania, complete with structured shapes, happy colors and plenty of minis. Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior believes the look encapsulates what young customers are looking for right now: “Something graphic and clean, minimal and positive. Because I think we have to give an optimistic outlook to the future.”  The look evolves for next spring with nearly neon hues, eye-catching placed motifs and graphic cutouts, whether a squared-off neckline or triangular openings at midriff or sides. Items include sleeveless or halter-neck shifts and bright A-line miniskirts. Get ready for a new “youthquake”.

Christian Dior, Spring-Summer 2022, Paris
Maryling, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan
Emilio Pucci, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan
Courreges, Spring-Summer 2022, Paris
Ports 1961, Spring-Summer 2022, Milan
Valentino, Spring-Summer 2022, Paris


Lacy doilies, once thought of as a relic of stuffy Victorian interiors, are newly appreciated as artifacts of a pre-feminist past. The mandala-like bits of lace were mostly handmade, and speak of a time when women, with few creative outlets, made beautiful yet anonymous things for the home or to give as gifts. This season, the trend for crochet gives way to a more delicate tatted lace, used for tops, dresses, ponchos and accessories. Pure white or tea-stained beiges emphasize the doily feel.

Isabel Marant, Spring-Summer 2020
Christian Dior, Spring-Summer 2020
Marine Serre, Spring-Summer 2020
Rokh, Spring-Summer 2020
Christian Dior, Spring-Summer 2020
Jonathan Simkhai, Spring-Summer 2020


Safari garb can be endlessly reinvented while still retaining its utilitarian roots. For next spring designers inject newness into the tried-and-true influence with filmy nylons, tech touches, pieced fabrics and surprising prints. Cargo pockets are flat or gusseted, and plenty of snaps, tabs and zips work as both fashion and function. In general the palette is softer, with muted neutrals and bright pops that work for any urban jungle.

Acne Studios Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
Dries Van Noten Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
Sunnei Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
Dior Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
Fendi Spring – Summer Menswear 2020
MSGM Spring – Summer Menswear 2020


The colors, prints and shapes of Mexico were a touchpoint for several designers this season, whether explicitly stated in show notes or inferred in a monkey print or a bit of serape striping. The reference shows itself in palm trees, embroidered florals, ball-fringe borders and folkloric motifs, all reinterpreted in a non-literal, modern way. White cotton eyelet brings freshness to the mix, and touches of black provide a nice contrast to pales or brights. The full skirt is a key element here, hitting anywhere from knee to ankle, and best cinched with a wide belt.

Tomas Maier Resort 2019
Dior Resort 2019
Louis Vuitton Resort 2019
EmilioPucci Resort 2019
Tory Burch Resort 2019
Oscar de la Renta Resort 2019



Intarsia sweaters have long moved past sentimental holiday signifiers and pretend folklorists. The newest designs are big and bold, often showing off a craftiness that includes trailing threads or “reverse side” effects. Some sweaters mix intarsia with knitted appliqués or yarn embroideries, adding dimension to placed motifs.

Coach Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Dior Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Valentino Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Isabel Marant Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Calvin Klein Fall/Winter RTW 2018
Gucci Fall/Winter RTW 2018


The movement towards comfy lingerie inspires all sorts of knitted bras, both as “built-in” details and stand-alone items. The tromp l’oeil versions include anatomically correct stitchery or strategically placed argyle diamonds. The season’s all-important crochet turns up as a hippie-ish bralette to layer over sweaters, and there are crochet or fully-fashioned knitted bras meant to seen under sheer tops or tulle dresses.

Aalto Fall/Winter RTW 18
Alexander Wang Fall/Winter RTW 18
Les Copains Fall/Winter RTW 18
Giambattista Valli Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dior Fall/Winter RTW 18
Genny Fall/Winter RTW 18


Pen and ink is having a moment. Black lines against a white ground inform prints, embroideries and intarsias; motifs suggest astrological diagrams, toiles, Aubrey Beardsley curlicues or vintage illustrations. Dior even used a model drawing with ink and brush for their Spring 18 campaign, emphasizing the timeless sensuality of the hand-drawn line.

Dennis Basso Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter RTW 18
Michael Kors Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dior SS18 RTW Ad Campaign
JW Anderson Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dries Van Noten RTW Fall/Winter 18



Foil-finish silvers are the preferred metallic for next season. A straight skirt gets a visual flash with an ultra-shiny reflective surface. Crinkled foil coatings have a softer effect, as in a silver-dipped pea coat. Metallic panels juxtapose with stripes and solids for a surprising dose of futurism on an otherwise simple shift dress. A distressed silver coating takes 5-pocket jeans to the next level. Silver’s neutral quality makes it a perfect choice for footwear and accessories.

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter RTW 18
Arthur Arbesser Fall/Winter RTW 18
Dior Fall/Winter RTW 18
Calvin Klein Fall/Winter RTW 18
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter RTW 18
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter RTW 18



Patchwork, crochet, macramé, rough stitches and trailing threads are key signifiers of the maker movement, an aesthetic that is elevated on the runways with sleek silhouettes and witty exaggeration. Colorful bulky yarns are used for crafty sweaters, imperfect edging and fat embroideries; motifs suggest finger-painted scribbles or kindergarten florals.

Dior Fall/Winter RTW 18
Remix Fall/Winter RTW 18
Anrealage Fall/Winter RTW 18
Missoni Fall/Winter RTW 18
Ashish Fall/Winter RTW 18
Daniela Gregis Fall/Winter RTW 18