In fashion right now it’s not about the color, it’s about the color combo. One mix that John Galliano used for his couture collection for Maison Margiela and that reappears in more wearable ways in resort presentations is a vibrant concoction of magenta and green. Designers use the two hues in prints, in solids for ensembles, or in a graphic way such as contrasting lapels.
GIAMBA RESORT 2019
Intarsia sweaters have long moved past sentimental holiday signifiers and pretend folklorists. The newest designs are big and bold, often showing off a craftiness that includes trailing threads or “reverse side” effects. Some sweaters mix intarsia with knitted appliqués or yarn embroideries, adding dimension to placed motifs.
In a season of plaids, there is one motif that particularly stands out: the time-honored buffalo check. The check originated in the 1700s as a Scottish tartan called the MacGregor Red and Black; Woolrich introduced it to America as the “buffalo check” in 1850. For next season the pattern gets updated with refreshed color combos, quilted versions, and brushed surfaces that give it a slightly blurred effect. The buffalo check works in both traditional and quirky styles and even goes head-to-toe with checked hoods and wooly platform boots.
Hoods are happening for next fall, and not just for hoodies or outerwear. Cut-and-sew pullovers — in ribbed jerseys or stretchy stocking-weight nylons — have snug-fitting head-coverings that extend from turtlenecks. While many hoods are built-in, there are also free-standing balaclava versions with hand-knitted appeal.
Foil-finish silvers are the preferred metallic for next season. A straight skirt gets a visual flash with an ultra-shiny reflective surface. Crinkled foil coatings have a softer effect, as in a silver-dipped pea coat. Metallic panels juxtapose with stripes and solids for a surprising dose of futurism on an otherwise simple shift dress. A distressed silver coating takes 5-pocket jeans to the next level. Silver’s neutral quality makes it a perfect choice for footwear and accessories.
The leopard coat, an outerwear staple of fashion icons and influencers, emerges as a key item this season in a variety of iterations. Updated silhouettes include oversized duffels, trim trenches, and patchwork furs, while classic tailored versions are still relevant. Additional newness comes from exaggerated proportions and stylized motifs, some featuring colorful overdyes or pattern mix.
Stripes are coming in from all directions for next fall. Mitered placements and sharp angles elevate the pattern from the classic to the unconventional. Uneven spacing, varied widths and vivid color provide more newness, as do textural stitches and head-to-toe styling — right down to the striped tights.
Stripes are coming in from all directions for next fall. Mitered placements and sharp angles elevate the pattern from the classic to the unconventional. Uneven spacing, varied widths and vivid color provide more newness, as do textural stitches and head-to-toe styling — right down to the striped tights.
The leopard coat, an outerwear staple of fashion icons and influencers, emerges as a key item this season in a variety of iterations. Updated silhouettes include oversized duffels, trim trenches, and patchwork furs, while classic tailored versions are still relevant. Additional newness comes from exaggerated proportions and stylized motifs, some featuring colorful overdyes or pattern mix.
In the 1938 film Jezebel, Bette Davis’ rebellious southern belle character chooses to wear a red dress to the ball. Even in the film’s black-and-white, the rich gray created by the gown’s scarlet satin stands out against the sea of virginal white confections, and manages to shock polite society as well as alienate our heroine’s handsome fiance (played by Henry Fonda). All that to say there is power in the red dress, especially the ones on this season’s New York runways. While classic Hollywood may have provided inspiration for the plunging V’s and midi-lengths, the new fiery frocks are shiny, sumptuous and slithery, with asymmetric necklines or button-and-loop openings that give the dresses the feel of being caught in a moment of dishabille.