The movement towards comfy lingerie inspires all sorts of knitted bras, both as “built-in” details and stand-alone items. The tromp l’oeil versions include anatomically correct stitchery or strategically placed argyle diamonds. The season’s all-important crochet turns up as a hippie-ish bralette to layer over sweaters, and there are crochet or fully-fashioned knitted bras meant to seen under sheer tops or tulle dresses.
Tailoring takes a sculptural turn for next fall. Arms are rounded, torsos are nipped, shoulders are draped and hips are molded. Fabrics with body are essential, often reinforced with padding, facing, plastic coatings or clever cuts. Simple menswear tweeds or plaids give ballast to these somewhat avant-garde shapes, making them more approachable.
On the very first day of NYFW for Spring 18, Kim Kardashian attended the Tom Ford show wearing a slithery black latex dress by indie Queens-born designer LaQuan Smith, known for his body-hugging fits and hip-high slits. The shiny black was a harbinger of looks on runways in all four major cities. Several collections showed glossy coated fabrics, patent leathers or vinyl in inky blacks or the occasional lacquered lipstick red. There were prim ruffled skirts, mid-century frocks, tailored pants and precise blazers, making these high-gloss materials more about fashion than fetish.